Decor Portfolio

Arranging artwork is something of an art itself.  If you’re hanging a single painting or print, you need to be certain that its positioned at a comfortable eye level, which may be different depending on whether its to be seen from a sitting position most of the time, viewed as you walk down the hall or up the stairs.  Arranging a group of pictures takes even more thought, so you might like to try out the following exercise.  It will give you more accurate impression of the final effect than the elevations can. 
Begin with a paper square or rectangle slightly larger than the wall area you wish to cover.  Newsprint is ideal – it’s inexpensive and easy to handle – or you can use an old white or light-colored sheet if you prefer.  Lay the paper sheet on the floor and arrange the artwork until you achieve the balance, shape, and visual weight that pleases you.  
Trace the outline of each frame with a pencil (use chalk on the sheet).  Tape the mockup on the wall in the exact place you plan to position the grouping.  Study it from close-up and afar, from sitting and standing.  Leave it on the wall for a day or two to be certain that the display is where you want it.  You may decide to rearrange the spacing between pictures to make the configuration tighter or more open.
While the marked-up paper or sheet hangs on the wall, keep the artwork close by, preferably on a table or the floor, and laid out in the same manner.  Having the artwork near the area where it will hang allows you to examine it in the natural and artificial light it will receive and in the context or nearby furnishings.
If you change the arrangement in one place, change it in the other as well.  When you are satisfied with the results, and you know the exact position of each part of the grouping, mark the precise placement of the nail, hook, or fastener on the wall mock-up.  Tap the tip of a nail though the paper or sheet to mark the wall lightly.  After you remove the paper, double-check the location of the various fasteners before you secure them in place.

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Though not every piece of artwork need to be framed – posters, for instance, can often be tacked up as is – most will hang better, last longer, and look more attractive in a frame.  The primary function of a frame is a practical one – to help artwork keep its shape and to protect it against damage from handling and exposure to dust, grease, pollutants, and excess moisture or dryness in the air.  But a frame also has important aesthetic functions – primarily to enhance the art itself, and secondarily to ease the transition from artwork to the surrounding background.  A simple frame encourages the eye to linger on art before taking in the rest of the wall and the overall setting. Although some artwork lends itself to a decorative or bold frame, in which the two elements work together to create a composition, the key to successful framing is not to let the frame complete with or overwhelm the art.
Occasionally, the background completes with the art, due to a patterned wall covering or an intense paint color.  One way to ease the transition and provide the buffer against the surroundings is to use a mat around the art.
Occasionally, the background completes with the art, due to patterned wall covering or an intense paint color.  One way to ease the transition and provide a buffer against the surroundings is to use a mat around the art.
Mats can also be particularly useful in enhancing small-scale artwork or delicate pastels and watercolors by setting them off with a border that becomes a visual extension of the frame.
Most of the time glass is recommended to protect the surface of the artwork from nicks and grime, but it can present some problems.  Regular glass can act as a mirror and cause reflections and uncomfortable glare, which detract from the air beneath; non-reflective glass tends to dull and flatten colors. Paintings done in oil and acrylics are usually not covered with glass because the moisture in the medium can foster the growth of mildew.  Prints, watercolors, pastels, and photographs framed under glass should be mounted and matted with acid-free paper or board, which wont deteriorate and cause discoloration.  You can substitute lightweight, shatterproof clear acrylic for glass in some instances, but the material produces static electricity, which attracts dust and can pull the powder of charcoals and pastels away from the surface of the art.
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Visually speaking, artwork as a whole – whether composed of a single piece or a group of items – should fit the scale and proportion of the wall it accessorize, harmonize with furnishings (especially those that sit nearby), and be part of the total room design.  As the eye flows over furnishings and follows the line of the artwork up and across the wall, it should detect a satisfying rhythm and balance.
The arrangement needn’t be symmetrical as long as the sizes of the various elements on the wall balance each other.
Since envisioning a wall arrangement before it’s actually in place may be difficult, you can use elevations from your furniture plan to help out.  Lay a piece of tissue paper over the elevation of the wall in question and experiment with positioning the artwork in various ways.  (Remember to draw in to the correct scale for the plan.) If you’re intending to use a group of pictures, you can sketch in the outline of the grouping as a whole to see how the overall shape fits the wall; once that looks in balance, you can try out different configurations for the individual pictures in the collection.
Your preplanning should take into consideration the physical state of the wall itself.  An interior partition may not be able to withstand the weight of a heavy paining, so you may have to relocate it to an exterior, or load-bearing, wall.  Nails and hooks can pull out of the wall unless fastened to a stud (part of the structural framework) underneath.  If a stud isn’t located where you want to hang the picture, you can use an expansion bolt instead of a nail.  The picture hooks that come with an adhesive backing are handy to use and are simple to install, but they wont stick to a textured wall or support much weight.
Once you’re satisfied with the approximate location of the artwork, you can begin to look just the right frame for its display.
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Whereas it is relatively easy to group a few small family photographs or small framed prints on a table or desk in a manner that’s pleasing to the eye and complementary to the setting, displaying artwork on a wall presents more of a challenge.  Whether you’re considering a single painting, a collection of old maps, or a grouping of photos, the same questions arise.  Where should the artwork be placed on the wall and how high off the floor? Will it fit the space visually and physically? Will it relate to the nearby furnishings and the room as a whole? Can the wall support its weight? What kind of frame is appropriate? What about lighting?
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As discussed in this book, artwork is a broad term that encompasses original paintings, fine-art prints, folk art, posters, and photographs.  (it could be expanded to include other items as well.)  Accessorizing with artwork can be either costly or economical: a one-of-a-kind original oil painting is usually an expensive investment and probably deserves a place of honor in your home: limited-edition prints that have been signed by the artist are less costly to purchase but can make just as valuable a statement on your wall; fine-art prints, quality posters, and most photographs carry an even lower price tag and can make accessorizing affordable.

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Although accessories are usually introduced after the furniture has been placed, they shouldn’t be regarded as afterthoughts. They have an important role as supplemental furnishings that round out the room and enrich the other objects in the space.  As such, they can be thought about and planned for in the same way you looked into other aspects of your decorating project.  Large plants, a focal-point painting, sizable sculpture, or a grouping of photographs are all best considered as you develop your room design and draw up your floor and furniture plans.
 Choosing the finishing touches that mean the most to you and your family is very personal.  It may center on displaying artwork, artifacts, or antique candleholders.  It may focus on creating tabletop arrangements of family photographs, lining shelves with mementos from travels abroad, or filling a glass-front cabinet with grandmother irreplaceable china.  Fresh flowers that change with the seasons, or from delicate dried arrangements that have timeless appeal may spark your room.  It personality may come from quilts or fabrics that hang on the wall, from stained glass windows, or from sculpture.  Accessories can be anything you want them to be.  They are the details that can pull together the many elements that make up the decors of your home. 
 Accessories can be decorative or practical, or both.  Most serve in a decorative capacity, whether they supplement the major furnishings of the room, relate to the colors and textures of the space or express the individuality of the owner: toss pillows on the sofa, a plant on a bookshelf, a display of personal treasures on a side table.  Though the room might seem less complete without them, they are not necessary to the function of the space.  Some accessories, however, have a practical ole, and without them the enjoyment and use of the room would be hindered. Lamps fall into this category, as do tableware, bath towels, and bedding.  Naturally, these accessories are most versatile when they are visually attractive as well as functional. 
As you approach the final stages of planning and developing your room design, keep you eyes open for a wide variety of items to accessorize and enrich your home.  Look for personal belongings that you tucked away and forgot about; gather together all the photos lying loose in desk drawers; think about displaying your collection of antique bottles, shells and rocks, or African violets. If you wish to incorporate new purchases, attend craft fairs, visit galleries, and explore specialty boutiques, second-hand bookstores, and antique shops. Keep in mind that, accessories, whether existing or new, will be more meaningful if they have a personal connection as well as a place in your decorating scheme.
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These portable light fixtures serve an important role in a room: they bring comfort as well as convenience to the space, and they are at once functional and decorative. 
Your selection process can go smoothly if you keep a few things in mind.  Whether the lamps stand on the floor or sit on a table, its base and shade form a visual unit and should relate to each other in pleasing ways.  If the shade us proportionally too large for the base, the lamp will look top heavy; if too small and high, the shade will appear to perch on the base, and the bulb may be exposed.  In addition, the lamp as a whole should relate to nearby furnishings – neither seems too bulky for the table it sets on, nor dwarfed by the armchair it stands beside – and fit into the context of the room as a whole.
Once you’ve narrowed the field of lamps to a few final candidates, examine each closely for workmanship and materials.  Quality lamps should have no visible joints and be constructed of heavy-gauge metals.  Glass, ceramic, or wood bases should be heavy, stable, and well made.  Check both electric cord and plug: are they securely and safely fastened in place?  Does the switch turn easily and feel sturdy? Does the fixture have a dimmer or three-way switch for energy savings?  Does the light shine up or down or in both directions?  Will he lamp contribute to the general lighting of the room or function simply for task work?
Think about the lamp from a decorative standpoint, too.  In a room setting, the base will probably be the first part of the fixture noticed because that’s where most of the light falls.  Is the color, texture, shape, and height to your liking and compatible with the room design?  The eye will move to the shade next.  Is it of the proper shape and scale for the base? What about the material?  Fine pleats are delicate and traditional in style, but they are hard to keep clean. Translucent shades let a measure of light pass through, but their color will vary with the material and the intensity of the bulb; opaque shades, on the other hand, will seem darker when the light is on.  In the end, of course, no matter how much the lamp appeals to you aesthetically, it has to fulfill your lighting needs and fit into your budget. 

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Although hanging lamps and chandeliers will always have a place illuminating the dining room and breakfast areas of homes, hanging lamps in particular lend themselves to a variety of other situations.  They are especially useful wherever down lighting is desirable for tasks; a reflector lining in the shade concentrates the beam even more and can be used to accent.  Sometimes called pendant lamps, these fixtures range from the simple cord hung metal shade to hi-tech chrome and glass versions, from Art Deco styles to Tiffany reproductions.  The key to their placement is that the light from the bottom of the bulb (or bulbs) not create glare, or shine directly in the eye.  Traditional chandeliers, too, need proper positioning to avoid creating unflattering shadows.
 Track lighting is one of the most versatile of systems and can be indispensable when decorating or redecorating.  It can be mounted on almost any ceiling or wall, regardless of the material, and arranged in almost any configuration. The individual fixture come in a number of sizes and finishes and can often accept a variety of bulbs.  A track system may be employed to solve all the lighting needs of a room: Some fixtures work together to flood walls with even light for general illumination, others can be positioned to assist tasks, and still others can be positioned the accents.  Finally, if you wish, the system can be dismantled if you move and configured in a new space.
Wall fixtures range from practical cylinders that shine light up or down or in both directions, to decorative sconces that are usually designed to provide general indirect lighting rather than a focused beam. Wall sconces are available in a number of shapes, styles, and price ranges; some models are finely crafted and meant to enhance a wall like a work of art – and carry the price tag to prove it.
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Light fixtures come in all shapes and sizes; many are flexibly designed to work in any given situation to solve a variety of problems.  A hanging lamp over a dinning room table can provide the necessary illumination in addition to providing ambient light and contributing to the decorative mood of the room; a well-positioned up light can assist in general illumination by bouncing light off ceiling or walls while accenting a sculptural plant.  But function is only one of the factors in choosing the fixture that’s best for the situation; the decision also depends on initial cost, appearance, ease of installation and maintenance, energy efficiency, and operating expenses.
For practical purposes, fixtures may be thought of as architectural (fixed in place or built into the structure itself); or portable (movable devices that can be positioned and repositioned as furniture arrangements and redecorating instincts dictate).  Recessed lighting is clearly architectural – and permanent; table lamps are definitely portable.  A number of fixtures fall into either category.  Track lighting and wall source, for instance, are installed directly against the ceiling or wall but are semi permanent because they can be removed relatively easily, even though the surface will have to be patched and repainted.

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When the time comes to select the actual lighting for your design, you may have to make some compromises.  If your budget doesn’t allow the purchase of a track system and new table and floor lamps, for instance, it may be wiser to invest in track lighting and use other sources for finding the lamps – secondhand shops, rummage and estate sales, or inexpensive import shops.  You can always replace the interim lamps when the occasion arises – at a closeout sale or with discontinued models – or when you can afford what you really desire.
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